Hoi An - Ancient City

Hoi An Vietnam - 9 Dec 2010

Hoi An, Ancient City! As it's billed on all the advertising. Existing in one form or another since supposedly, times BC, it's modern history starts around the 1600's when it's port was a meeting place for traders from China, Japan & Europe. 

It's economic fortunes, mostly dominated by the Chinese, fluctuated over the years finally declining in the late 1800's when silt clogged up the river, hampering it's use as a port. The French attempted to resuscitate the place in the early 1900's using it as an administrative centre but it didn't take and when the rail line to Da Nang washed away in 1916, they didn't bother repairing it. 

It's obscurity allowed it to remain undamaged during both the French & American Wars and now the antique buildings, ancient houses of Chinese Merchants etc, form a picturesque  backdrop for the modern renaissance as a tourist destination.

It's a pretty place but somehow,after our wanderings around the backstreets of Da Nang, we feel a bit like we've transported in to a Lonely Planet scripted tourist movie. Every restaurant on the main street has a sign up advertising the same dishes that are featured in the Lonely Planet and Rough Guides sidebars, the hawkers in the market actually follow you up the street haranguing you and the streets are filled with European and Ozzie Backpackers.

That's ok, we sort of expected it, it's one of the most famous tourist destinations in Vietnam, we are only here for a couple of days and it IS lovely. Our Hotel is right on the banks of the river and has a lovely leafy aspect and relaxed atmosphere. We followed the script and tried the locals specials for dinner, cao lau -a noodle dish with bean sprouts and pork and banh boa - manioc dumplings of crab topped with crispy fried onions and peanut and they were good although a little oily for Karen.

We are looking forward to visiting the Chinese Mansions, dating back to the 1600's. Constructed by wealthy merchant families with the Chinese love of the ornate and apparently filled with antiques and the collectibles of 8 generations they are one of the big draws here on the tourist map.