More Wanderings in Saigon

Saigon Vietnam - 24 Nov 2010

Well we definitely have the hang of the food here in Saigon and it's wonderful. We had 2 of the best meals we've had anywhere today. After an interesting morning walking around the Reunification Palace we stumbled across a French Bakery with a Cafe upstairs which is like a little Oasis in the madness of central Saigon. Cool & quiet with impeccable service they served me a very well turned out and tasty Salad Nicoise while Karen had what was apparently the 2nd best Sandwich she's ever had in her life. The best ever was on a Lufthansa flight many years ago and she said her memory of it may be a little exaggerated so this sandwich is definitely up there.

The Reunification Palace was a lot more interesting than I expected it to be. It was built on the site of a French Mansion used by the Governor General of Indochina and then the President of The Republic of Vietnam after the French got the boot. 

The original mansion got bombed, condemned and finally pulled down and they built the current palace on top. It looks more like a Library than a Palace, built in the sort of  modernist style of the 60's. Originally named The Independence Palace it got rechristened The Reunification Hall when the Tanks from the North busted the gates down not long after the Americans had evacuated and the South surrendered unconditionally, the whole of the country becoming The Socialist Republic of Vietnam. The Palace bit came later, presumably to make it more interesting to tourists.

It's an (unintentional) monument to 60's & 70's kitsch inside having been left exactly the way it was in 1975 when the war ended. Highlights are a circular sofa and bar that could have out of a Bond Movie in the entertainment room. The basement is the most atmospheric area where the former war command rooms are filled with old telex machines and archaic radio equipment and lined with campaign maps on the wall.

Presidents Office Reunification Palace

The exhibition room hosts a photographic history of the war and times after. From the horrific (Buddhist Monks self immolating and the Mai Lai massacre) to historic (first cabinet meetings and visits from foreign dignitaries) we found ourselves fascinated by the display. After being variously occupied and oppressed by a succession of foreign countries and finally a civil war between North & the South (propped up by the USA and Russia respectively) they take their independence and the struggle it took to achieve it very seriously here and you can't help but be impressed by it when you've seen the evidence of it.

We were going to go straight on to the War Remnants Museum but found it closed so instead we wandered around the Backpacker District, filled with cheap hotels, pubs, galleries, restaurants, not unlike Kuta in Bali in atmosphere. By the time the Museum would have been open again we found we'd lost our taste for War and things to do with it.

Backpacker District

In the Glorious Socialist Republic of Vietnam people go to the park to exercise together after work and we wandered through on the way home, joining in a bit of exercise and trying to play the local game of shuttlecock where the shuttle must be kept in the air by your feet only. A truly bizarre and difficult game that would take more time than we had to learn it.

I did get Better!

Tonight we went to the Food Court at Benh Tan Market and had a whole BBQ Snapper and some veggies, stir fried with garlic, that was heavenly. Just an exquisite meal for about $10 with a couple of drinks.

Last day in Saigon tomorrow we are off to Mui Ne beach on Friday for some relaxation and sun-baking.

Che's Ride. Note the Skull Headlight!